Monday, June 16, 2008

New Adventures in Hair

As many of you know, I enjoy an occasional drastic change to the color of my hair. But here in Africa, the more common practice for women is to drastically change the style of their hair. I certainly couldn't resist, so this past Saturday, I embarked upon a new adventure in hair!
BEFORE: "Oh Beckaaaay, what ever shall I do with this shaggy 70's hair of mine?"
I called over Charlotte (left) and she came with her friend Davina (right) and a few packs of different colored fake hair. Mmmmmm. After some pondering, I turned down the black and the brown in favor of a purple and magenta combination. And so they started in to work...
Here is the hair itself, draped over the back of the couch. They prepared it, cut it to the right length, and eventually arranged it into numerous small portions with a bit of each color, ready to braid.
Four and a half hours and a couple of movies later, I was lookin' pretty fine, with long thick hair the likes of which I've never had before! Yes, it hurt at times, but they worked really quickly and did a great job. Here they are finishing up the last few braids, just before they tied it all back and dipped the ends in near-boiling water.
AFTER: "Hmmm, this hairstyle and color is not entirely unlike that of DJ Adrian from Bootie!"
Thanks ladies! I have been greatly enjoying my new big hair, and have not yet taken it out of the convenient ponytail as of this writing. (Will probably do that later today, and put it in a different style.) People say it can last for several weeks, so we'll see how it goes. I'm already scheming about colors for the next time I get this done!

Saturday, June 14, 2008

graphing Cameroon

I'm sorry to say that many people in the US know little about Cameroon. They may not even know it's an African country, or that it's not an island country. I had that last assumption for a little while, perhaps confusing "the Cameroons," which was the name of the country when divided between British and French colonial rule following WWI, with the island nation of Comoros, off Mozambique. Most of this blog is about sharing our direct experience of Cameroon, but I thought it might be interesting to look at the numbers briefly. Since you can draw charts with Google, here are a few charts comparing some numbers between the US, all of Africa, and Cameroon. As a farewell gift to Karen (see previous post), I'm throwing in Canada too.



Population
Africa: 922 million
Cameroon: 18 million
Canada: 33 million
US: 304 million



Land Area in Square Miles
Africa: ~11.7 million
Cameroon: ~184 thousand
Canada: ~3.9 million
US: ~3.8 million



Human habitation
Africa: ~200,000 years (ie, all of it)
Cameroon: ~85,000 years (Neolithic period)
Canada: ~26,500 years
US: ~12,000 years



GDP
Africa: $2.16 trillion
Cameroon: $42.5 billion ($0.04 trillion)
Canada: $1.274 trillion
US: $13.13 trillion


GDP per Capita
Cameroon: $2421
Canada: $38,200
US: $43,444



Human Development Index
("normalized measures of life expectancy, literacy, educational attainment, and GDP per capita")

Cameroon: 0.532
Canada: 0.961
US: 0.951


(sources: Google, and the Wikipedia pages on Africa, Cameroon, Canada and the USA. Thanks to Dave for prompting me to put this together on an idle Saturday, since he said he likes graphs.)

work and housing

I collaborated with Jeff to put together a training session in French on Microsoft Excel for administrative personnel at the EPC, the Francophone Cameroonian Presbyterian Church. I presented it, in French, this past Tuesday and Wednesday. The first day (coincidentally my birthday) was exhausting, and I came home and ate dinner and went to bed. But it was much easier the second day. Next Monday I go back for a Q&A session, when people from the training can spend some time working with Excel and asking me questions. In French, I repeat, because I can't quite believe it. I was pleased that the training sessions finally happened, since they have been difficult to organize with the EPC. The simple fact that we were able to get a few computers with the same version of Excel on them in a room with power, lights, and six or seven interested EPC administrative personnel all at the same time feels like quite an achievement, after all the time and effort it took to put this together. If you ever get a chance to teach in another language, I'd recommend trying it. It will blow your mind. Plus, with the advent of the internet, you can steal liberally from other peoples' online notes, which makes preparation much easier.

On the housing front, we are sorry to see our friend Karen leave. If you follow this blog you've seen some pictures of her. She's the one who injured her knee playing ultimate frisbee. So far it hasn't healed, and she hasn't been able to keep off of it since she lives in a third-floor walk-up apartment in hilly Yaounde', half a mile from work and without a car. So she's headed back home to Canadia (as Ann pronounces it) to get some medical attention. We're glad she's taking care of herself, but sorry to see her go. She'll be back a few days before we leave Cameroon. She invited us to visit her place on Lake Winnipeg when she gets back.

In the meantime, we offered to sublet her place in her absence, and she agreed and squared it away with the powers that be. So instead of spending our last couple of months in Cameroon living in a 9x17' room off the Kapteyns' garage, we'll have our own one-bedroom apartment a block away from them, in the same building as some of our other single friends. Karen is happy because she can leave all her stuff in place instead of packing it, since we just have clothes and our laptops. We're happy since we get some extra space and privacy for the rest of our trip, and that building has wireless internet as well. And the Cameroonian fellow who lives in the Kapteyns' dependance, as the room is called in French, doesn't have to move out yet. So everyone wins. But we'd still rather have Karen stay here.

The apartment comes with a cat named Bert Douglas that Karen is keeping for someone else. So we'll take care of Bert til she gets back too. Since we don't move in there for another month, we'll be stopping by to share feeding duties with some other friends in the building. Of course, if we can get our wireless internet hooked up right away, we'll by stopping by quite often to work there. Never did get wireless connected where we live now.

Karen has a habit of taking pictures of the sky here, which is spectacularly visible from her balcony. I copied her sky pictures recently, and also grabbed a few she had of us. So here we are on the couch in the apartment where we'll be moving in July. That's Bert Douglas on my lap. He's insistent and picky, like most cats, but affectionate.





We get to use the couch, too.

Monday, June 9, 2008

Serious Yard Work

Behind the house where we live (outside of the wall, so it's not really our yard), there is a footpath where people come and go from the main road, and an embankment sloping up to the fenced-in field where we play frisbee on Sundays. This being Africa and all, things grow quickly and vigorously upon said embankment, so every few months, a troupe of young men has at it with machetes.
This time around, they let it go for 3 or 4 months, longer than usual, so it was quite a jungle back there. It took them three mornings of work to cut back all the brush. I took the picture above when they were partway through with this side, so you can see where they stopped. The grass and bushes are as tall as I am.
Now here's another picture I took after they were done. There's a whole fence back there, and a couple palm trees, and a footpath. Who knew? And if you liked it better with all that greenery, never fear, it'll be back in a couple months...

Africa: A Biography of the Continent, by John Reader


We've been doing a lot of reading here, as you can see from the growing book list in the sidebar on the right. One of these books is Africa: A Biography of the Continent, by John Reader. I borrowed this from Terri and Valery awhile ago, and enjoyed it immensely. It covers the history of Africa from the dawn of geological time through the present day; beginning with geology, it moves into anthropology, archeology, and finally the documentary record, covering not just the history and origins of the people here, but the land and natural history as well. It's a big book, and if, like me, you didn't get much about Africa in school, it's a great way to learn a lot. The earlier stuff on geology is drier, so if you pick up the book, you might want to skip ahead to start with something more interesting.

I plan to buy this book in hardcover when I get home, and reread it. The book is so big that reviewing it in detail, or even sharing its contents in detail, is out of the question. So instead, here is an assortment of information from the book that I found interesting. The book is so comprehensive even these excerpts are only from the first part; they don't include, for example, anything from the startling chapters on the first European interactions with Africa, and African slavery.

Anything quoted from the book is in quotation marks. From the book:

Africa is enormous. Here in Yaounde, it's as far to Johannesburg, South Africa as it is to Paris. “Africa is only the second largest continent, but it contains 22 per cent of the Earth's land surface. The Sahara desert alone is as large as the continental United States. In face, the United States, China, India, and New Zealand could all fit within the African coastline, together with Europe from the Atlantic to Moscow and much of South America." The Nile is the world's longest river.

The Bantu peoples who “colonized virtually all of sub-Saharan Africa” over a span about 3000 years in prehistoric times come from what is now the border area between Nigeria and Cameroon.

The Sahara used to be wooded grasslands and savannah. It was inhabited up until the last glacial maximum dried out the climate 18,000 years ago, and still wasn't fully dried out then. It's drier now, and getting bigger.

People have been eating honey for an awfully long time. There is a bird called the African honeyguide evolved to get the attention of people who show up in an area with an available bees' nest and lead them to it, in order to get a meal of leftover grubs and combs.

Farmers and elephants have been competing in Africa for more than 2000 years. The farmers finally got the upper hand in the 1950s. The plunge in elephant numbers in recent decades may well have more to do with human population numbers than the ivory trade.

Why does Africa seem to have so many threats to human health? People have been here the longest: “The tropical environments of Africa have seen the evolution of the greatest number and diversity of life forms on Earth. Although humans are a relatively recent expression of the continents' fecundity, the array of organisms that evolved to take advantage of their existence is no more than might be expected to result from five million years of co-evolution. Parasites and diseases affecting humans are uniquely prevalent in Africa. The afflictions are numerous; the means of infection bewildering and various.”

“the tropical rainforest is so efficient at keeping available resources at work within the living community of plants that the soils in which they stand are virtually devoid of nutrients... The result of such total self-sufficiency is that the entire system is rooted in sand, and is much less stable that might be supposed.”

Most mammals on the African savannah, where human ancestors evolved, stay cool because they have a muzzle and specialized blood vessels that serve as a radiator and heat exchanger. But this only functions if the brain is small enough. Our ancestors evolved a different cooling strategy (sweating, and walking upright to reduce sun exposure), which removed this limitation on brain size. Big brains require so much energy that our diet also changed: “Our small gut runs exclusively on high-quality foods, principally the rich reproductive nuclei of other organisms – seeds, nuts, tubers and eggs – topped off with significant quantities of protein in the form of meat.”


“the distinctive form of modern humans had evolved between 140,000 and 290,000 years ago, in Africa” and that “the entire population of the modern world was decended from a relatively small group of people that left Africa about 100,000 years ago.” How small? All non-African humans are decended from “as few as fifty” people. And “every human being alive today carries the mtDNA of just one African woman who lived more than 10,000 generations ago.”

When humans left Africa for the first time, there were fewer than a million people in the world.

The oldest primate in the fossil record considered our evolutionary ancestor was found in Egypt and lived 35 million years ago.

Human groups tend towards about 150 as an optimal size. This is related to the size of the neocortex in our brains. This corresponds to the smaller group size of other primates, and their smaller neocortexes. We maintain our bigger groups by using language instead of grooming for social cohesion, which is why about 3/4 of our conversation is about other people and relationships.

Population cycles of boom and bust are common throughout human existence, based on a fluctuating food supply. The story is not one of stable, steady population growth. Large numbers of people have died off every so often when food ran short, often because of climate change. (Anyone else feel a sudden chill...?)

Our ancestors were using fire “not less than 1 million years ago” according to evidence found in South Africa. And modern humans have been around no more than 290,000 years, so our hominid forbears used it for over 700,000 years before we came along and replaced them.

Sites at Katanda, on the Upper Semliki River in Congo, dating back 75,000 to 90,000 years, contain quantities of spears and barbed fishing harpoons. These specialized tools are 35,000 years older than anywhere else. The human invention of the spear here coincided with major climate changes and “a slew of mammalian extinctions.”

The earliest evidence of human agricultural management is 70,000 years old. Not quite farming, probably controlled burning to encourage growth of edible plants, inferred from the scale and nature of the leftovers unearthed.

“the world's earliest-known centralized food-production system was established along the Nile 15,000 years ago” and lasted for 5000 years, when climate change destroyed it thousands of years before the Pharaohs. Increased rainfall upstream severely reduced the size of the Nile floodplain that sustained it.

“The first animal to be domesticated was the dog, in western Asia, about 12,000 years ago, and the most recent appears to have been the goldfish (in China, about 1000 years ago).” Domestic cattle are descented from a monster called the aurochs (the last one died in captivity in Poland in the 1600s), which stood two meters high at the shoulder and had enormous forward-pointing horns. It may have been seduced into domestication by being provided with salt and water. The earliest “incontrovertible evidence” of domestic cattle is 8000 years old. Adult humans are naturally lactose-intolerent and had to evolve to drink milk.

Aksum, an ancient kingdom in modern-day Ethiopia: “From indigenous African roots dating back many thousands of years, and encompassing the full history of hunting and gathering, herding and agriculture, Aksum developed a civilization and empire whose influence, at its zenith in the fourth and fifth centuries AD, extended through the regions lying south of the Roman Empire, from the fringes of the Sahara in the west, across the Red Sea to the inner Arabian desert of Rub'el Hali in the east. The Aksumites developed Africa's only indigenous written script, Ge'ez, from which the written form of the languages spoken in modern Ethiopia has evolved; they traded with Egypt, the eastern Mediterranean and Arabia, and financed their operations with gold, silver, and copper coinage – the first and only coinage known in sub-Saharan Africa until the tenth century, when Arabian coins were used along the East African coast.” Aksum converted to Christianity in the fourth century AD. It met its end through environmental degradation and consequent demographic collapse.

The Aksumites carved stelae, gigantic stone tomb-markers. The biggest, visible today in five huge pieces, weighed over 700 tonnes and was “probably the largest single block of stone ever quarried, carved and set up in the ancient world.”

Coffee comes from Ethiopia.

People lived in peace for 1600 years without centralized authority at a place called Jenne-jenno, which lies on the inland Niger delta. They had plenty of food and a robust trading network, and their city got as large as 27,000 people. Through most of evolutionary history, people lived in small groups in Africa in peace, without the need for states. “But of course, like everything else in human evolutionary history, small peaceful communities in Africa were an ecological expedience.” Peace was an accident.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

so Christy had this wig and some funny glasses...

Our friend Christy, itinerant teacher, had a farewell party before leaving town for six weeks. She had a wig and some glasses at her place, and one thing led to another, and people had cameras, and then Karen made a collage:


Thursday, June 5, 2008

I Love Shopping!

For people who know me well, the title of this post may come as a shock. (And for people who follow this blog, the fact that I'm posting at all may come as a shock...) But here in Cameroon, I really do love shopping, specifically for food at Yaounde's main food market, Marche Mfoundi. Julia generally buys all the household fruit, vegetables, meat, etc. there, and once I started going with her several months ago, I never looked back. We go to market about once every two weeks, and it's like the best farmers market you've ever seen, but BIGGER and way more entertaining. Let me describe a typical trip to the Marche, along with some pictures I took there yesterday.

Our first stop is almost always our carrot man, which means he usually ends up changing the large bills that I start with. (The ATM gives 10,000 CFA bills; most of our purchases are 500 CFA or less.) He is very good natured about it, and every once in a while I try to give him some 'small money' instead of the big bills.
Mr. Carrot selects our pile of carrots and puts it in a bag. Julia's pregnant belly protrudes into the picture from the right. In the background, you can get some sense of what a wonderland this place is...
Our next stop was our onion lady, from whom we usually buy our onions and garlic. She said I could take her picture as long as I give her a copy. Hmmm, we use many onions, so I should probably follow through. Here, she bags up our onions.
Onions grow in the far north of Cameroon, and are trucked down to Yaounde in giant sacks. It's onion season now, so they are very inexpensive. Each of the smaller piles (still good-sized onions) is only 100 CFA, or about 25 cents. Yesterday we bought 2 big piles (eight very large onions) for about a dollar fifty.
Then we stopped and bought some beans (we got the black beans near the back in the photo) so that Julia can make her delicious beans & rice with plantains. So cheap and so good!
Our tomato lady bags up our allotment, while a hopeful 'porteur' waits in the background. Part of the market experience is being constantly assailed by young men who want to carry your things for you, either by hand or in a wheelbarrow. There are also lots of young boys trying to sell you extra sacks for your purchases. For some reason, there are also aggressive roving salesmen pushing leeks and black/white peppercorns. Because I'm a whitey, we get about five times the normal attention. Julia is very good to put up with all this!
There are lots of spices and such for sale, most of which I have no idea what they are, let alone how to use them. Some of them smell absolutely amazing! Also, those things on the right that look like rocks...they're rocks. Certain minerals are used in preparing certain foods.
Now it's time for some fruit, non? Look at those fine watermelons and giant grapefruits!
This is our main fruit lady, Maro. She sells great papayas and the most amazing pineapples, which we buy every time we go. She was very amused that I wanted to take photos, and I got this great shot of her laughing.
But really, she is a serious businesswoman. Here she is with her merchandise.
See? We're pals.
Nearby, Julia checks out some impressive avocados.
I'm gonna buy one of these soon, because they're coming into season. In French, it's called a corossol. No idea what it's called in English, but I've never seen these before coming here! It's a fruit, and we once had some tasty jam made from it. I was triumphant to actually discover what the fruit looked like.
The ever-present hot pepper, used in most of the cuisine here. They are so beautiful, and a whole section of the market is devoted almost exclusively to them. They have such a lovely and exciting smell, perfuming all the air around.
Our last stop is usually this woman, for lettuce (so it won't get crushed beneath other purchases) and anything else we've missed along the way. Isn't this a gorgeous picture?
Here is OUR porteur, Emmanuel. He is usually hanging around near where Maro sells her fruits, and once we meet up with him, the other guys leave us alone. You can't see his friendly smile in this picture, because it's hidden by his hat. Take my word for it, he has a friendly smile.

So that's the Marche, really a great highlight of our time here for me. And what you see here is such a small portion of it...the guys holding live chickens upside down by the feet, the piles of mangoes and citrus, the dried fish, women slicing bunches of greens into fine shreds with sharp knives, the dried flowers that we use to make juice, the fragrant heaps of basil and parsley, and my own personal fantasy come true: immense sacks of ginger root! I'm looking forward to showing this amazing place to some visitors later this month, so they can see even more why I love shopping.