Two weeks ago, I got on a crowded Cameroonian bus headed west, and stepped off several hours later across from the pointed tin roofs of Chefferie Bafou. I was here to spend a few days with Nancy and Gretchen, SIL friends of ours who live and work in Bafou, and get a little taste of village life.
My very first experience was the tail end of a special service at the church where Nancy and Gretchen attend, a commemoration of the deaths of family members in the church followed by a meal. She snuck me in during the offering, while the choir led everyone in an especially animated series of songs and one of the pastors got up and joined the dancing, much to everyone's delight.
I particularly appreciated this mama, banging away at that large drum while holding her little one. The singing was great, particularly a song (Kwa' Atsék) performed by many friends of Gretchen and Nancy in the local language, Yemba.
After the service and before the meal, everyone lined up for photographs. Look at all those pastors in their long black robes and frilly little collars. (The white-skinned man is albino, not uncommon in Cameroon.)
My attention was, of course, attracted by this cute baby…
…And by this girl's fine silver pants with pink fur trim. She has surely never even heard of burning man. Nancy introduced me to many of their friends, we ate fish and plantains with everyone, and we stayed a bit longer and socialized at the pastor's house, where there was another rousing performance of Kwa' Atsék and an unfortunate accident involving a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label whiskey. I tell you, these church people know how to live it up.
By the time we headed home, the sun was setting exquisitely across the hills.Nancy and Gretchen have been working with the people of Bafou on the Yemba language since their arrival 25 years ago. They are now known to many people in the large village, have a small translation team working steadily with them on various projects, and are quite comfortable in Yemba (not to mention French, English, and snippets of various other Cameroonian languages).
Here's Nancy working with two of their main language helpers, Micheline and Brigitte. They are working through a Yemba translation of a folk tale about a rat and a squirrel. Yemba is a very tonal language, so as they examine words and phrases, they actually sing little melodies back and forth. It's fascinating.
An example of a page from another illustrated storybook. Yemba has various sounds not present in English, so there are additional characters in its alphabet. I had trouble sounding things out, and even the word 'thank you' has four distinct parts and a couple different tones. Yikes!
Gretchen and Nancy employ Sylviane to help them with housework. She comes every weekday morning and helps with dishes, laundry, cleaning, etc while the ladies do their language work. She invited us to a special mass and celebration commemorating the death of her mother several years ago.
In Bafou, traditional 'chefferie' style pointed roofs are popular, and our friends' landlord had stuck a couple peaks atop N & G's carport, complete with decorative stars. The ladies denied any official 'chief' status for them or their vehicle, and insist the fancy roof was there prior to their tenancy.
The main gate of a very large compound nearby, affectionately dubbed 'Disneyland.' I was somewhat surprised that no fairy princesses emerged at any time during our visit.
The landscape is a series of ridges and valleys, green and rolling. Goat hill, thusly known because many people tether their goats there, is a short and lovely walk from N & G's house, and climbers are rewarded with sweeping vistas of the surrounding countryside.
Stay tuned for part 2, wherein Chris and Ann climb Goat Hill, Chris does yardwork with a machete, and Ann attends a funeral!
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