Monday, February 11, 2008

How to be a Taxi Driver

NOTE: Taxis here are nothing like taxis in the US. They are inexpensive and very communal, and for most people the only way to get from place to place besides walking. Like most Cameroonians, we don’t have a car, so we take a taxi at least half an hour each way whenever we go to the RELUFA office. Crammed in with my backpack on my lap and Chris’s long legs pressing me to one side, I actually really enjoy taxi rides. There’s often music on the radio, it’s a great way to see the city, and it’s one time when I actually feel I’m experiencing real life in Cameroon. Below are some of my observations and a few photos.

So you want to drive taxi here in Yaounde? Well first you need a car. Any car will do, as long as it’s a small four-door with a manual transmission. Obtain your official taxi driver placard from whatever bureau grants them, and hang it proudly from your rearview mirror. (It’s a 4x6 laminated card featuring the driver’s photo, name, and driver ID#) Get the car spray painted bright yellow, so that everyone will know it’s a taxi, and paint your car’s official vehicle number in a small colored circle on both front doors.


While you’re painting, this is your opportunity to make your car special! For example, instead of a circle, you could paint your vehicle number in another shape, like a tennis racket, a heart, or a nike swoosh. (Which I’ve heard people refer to as ‘la griffe de Nike’ – literally, the claw of Nike. Interesting…) Racing stripes are popular, as are stars, which you can paint on your rearview mirrors, your bumpers, or anywhere else they fit. On your car’s fuel port, you may wish to write your taxi’s preferred fuel type, ‘diesel’ or ‘super’ or ‘gasoil.’ And on the back of your vehicle, you may wish to paint its speed (always 60 km/h, which everyone knows is a lie, because you’ll either be going much slower stuck in traffic or trolling for fares, or much faster if you’re not) and its passenger capacity (always 5 places, though that means cramming two bodies in the front bucket seat) in fancy script. You may wish to remove the cranks from all windows but your own, so that passengers won’t go rolling their windows up and down willy-nilly. Keep one crank handy, so if a passenger works up the audacity to ask you about rolling down the window, you can grudgingly hand them the loose crank, and they can struggle to fit it on the metal stub and roll down their window. You can dangle small decorative balls from your rear bumper, install a flashy light inside the car, and even glue small green heart-shaped transparencies over your headlights. And finally, for maximum collection of dust and sweat, you can throw in some orange or brown fake fur seat covers – but that’s strictly optional.

Once your taxi is ready for the road, you need some passengers. Go out and join your fellow (and yes, they’re always fellows, never women) taximen in the streets of Yaounde. Don’t worry, even though taxis comprise more than half of the total traffic, there will always be enough passengers to go around. Some wait alongside the road in certain designated areas, some crowd at the edge of the markets with their purchases, some walk along, hoping to catch a ride on their way. If people have bags or parcels or small children with them, they can put them (well, not the children) in the trunk, which usually does not quite close properly. They key is to keep your taxi filled to maximum capacity at all times, which means three in back (plus perhaps a baby or two), two in front bucket seat, plus driver.

Anyone could be a potential passenger, so it’s important to communicate your readiness to be their taxi. The way to do this is, of course, with your horn. A well-placed honk can mean a myriad of things: I’m available. State your fare and destination. I accept; get in. Get the hell out of my way. What are you doing?? Hey, don’t you want a ride? Surely you don’t want to WALK to wherever you’re going. Over here! Et cetera. It’s amazing how much you can say just by honking your horn. Although to the untrained ear, it probably just sounds like a whole lot of gratuitous horn-honking.


Now that you’re loading in passengers and honking away with the best of them, it’s time to make sure you have the appropriate driving skills. When you’re on the well-paved open road, you must go as fast as possible. Pass anything in your way, no matter whether on the left or right, over the center lane, into oncoming traffic…let nothing dissuade you. If you’re driving in more crowded areas and there are two lanes of traffic going your way, and if those two lanes are not going fast enough for your liking, you are free to create a third lane, either straddling the center line (causing opposing traffic to honk at you) or on the shoulder of the road (causing pedestrians to dive for the ditch). When you reach a rond point (roundabout), shoot around it on the innermost lane, then race to cross the four or five lanes of traffic necessary to reach your desired side street. When you reach a Carrefour (crossroads), simply play ‘chicken’ with any other vehicles who might drive into your way as you make your turn. If they are privately owned cars, of course they will stop to let you through, not wanting to be dented by a taxi like you. If they are other taxis, well, may the strongest taximan win. You can always yell at the other driver if he cuts it too close.


Well, that’s about all you need to know. Remember to use your full range of speeds, from very fast for passing, to very sloooow for trolling for fares, to a complete stop for bad traffic jams. Be sure to listen to your radio if you have one, music or news or perhaps an annoying comedy show at maximum volume. But turn it down at least a little from time to time so you can hear potential passengers outside your window saying their destinations and the amount they’re willing to pay. When dropping people off, if you bother to pull off to the side, be sure to scare a few pedestrians by nearly running into them. It’s your right as a taximan. And remember, show your taxi love! Whether or not you have a heart painted on the side of the car, people have got to love you, because really, how else are they going to get around?

Saturday, February 9, 2008

late Christmas in Yaounde

Awhile back, I posted something about what I would have brought with me to Africa had I known more about what life here would be like. Then I found out that our friends Dave and Kate and Brian (who is house-sitting for us) promptly put together a package and sent it! It arrived yesterday, and I went to the post office to pick it up! One of the things on that list was extra underwear, and sure enough, they even shipped me extra underwear halfway across the world. I left that out of the pictures below.

So it's Christmas for us here in Yaounde, a bit late perhaps. Maybe in honor of Chinese New Year? Gung Hay Fat Choy! Year of the Rat, woo-hoo! AND, in addition to this largesse, our families also recently sent us a package. They didn't use the postal system, though. Our Yaounde friend Christy W just returned to Yaounde from a visit home to Michigan, where her folks and all 4 of ours live, so they sent a package with her. It contained cards, letters, good things to eat, tea, and the first two seasons of Columbo on DVD. Yes, Columbo, the 70s TV show about the rumpled detective played by Peter Falk. We found season 4 at the house when we moved in and got hooked, so when my folks asked what to send by way of movies, we asked for more. Ann and I both like it; Columbo is a hoot.

Finally, a few enterprising people also sent us Christmas cards and pictures, and those recently arrived as well. Thank you for bringing us some holiday cheer, and giving us some pictures to put up, card-senders! We now have our neice and nephew Anna and Calvin up on our fridge, along with Gwynne and Phil's kids, and River City Improv Michelle's family, plus Ann's extended clan at Christmas and a friendly shot of the Cameroon flag Ann's folks hung out in front of their place in Grand Rapids.

Here's a few pictures of all this Christmas goodness, all delivered just after Chinese New Year! A thousand thanks to our family members in Grand Rapids and all over the US, and to our good friends Dave, Kate and Brian in San Francisco, who have not forgotten us in spite of being abandoned for a city where it's 80 degrees and sunny every day! We'll be back in October, never fear.





This is the contents of the package from Brian, Kate and Dave. It was all the stuff on that list I posted a few months back. Unbelievable. Apparently it costs eighty-five bucks to ship everything you forgot to take with you to Yaounde. Plus there's a Halo 3 t-shirt that I didn't even ask for. And instead of the sunglasses I left behind, they went out and bought me a new pair: Foster Grant Iron Man sunglasses, 100% UV resistant and made out of some flexible synthetic material that appears to be indestructable. My Thomas Pynchon novel, half-completed. Underwear, and a disc wallet full of movies and music (not pictured). Bug repellent on nifty carabiners. Additional goodies for Ann. That incredibly holly-berry hand soap that makes Kate and Dave's place smell so good at Christmas, which I believe they told me you can't even get anymore. Thanks a ton, guys! (And Dave, as far as I'm concerned, this makes us even for the prank you pulled on our place when Ann and I were away on our honeymoon :P ).



Here's the fridge. It's starting to feel like home in the kitchen, thanks to these.



Finally, some of the Christmas cards send by our family. The one in the middle, from my parents, says "Sorry you're safari way." Heh heh. Safari. :)

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Ann went running with Adriana

Ann has found a few potential running partners in our new neighborhood!
Here, she and Adriana, soccer coach and fellow Mvan resident, gear up for a
tour of the neighborhood.

pics from General Assembly meeting last weekend

Ann and Christi got out their finest African couture for the meeting.


Ann and Ruben, who works for one of the RELUFA member NGOs.


Valery (with 7up) talking with Mateo and Christi on a break. Valery works for RELUFA as coordinator.


The guys from the restaurant up the street, who catered the lunches.


Two representatives from CEJARC, a RELUFA member NGO. The man on the left, Coco, is a cofounder of CEJARC, which works with blind people, and is himself blind.


The fellow on the right, named Martin Luther, is the other CEJARC cofounder, and is likewise blind. Their office is actually near our new house, and since Ann has visited them and I have not, we plan to go by sometime soon.




Delphine chats with Ann.


Elias, who runs the food bank operations in the north. He made an annual report about them during the meeting.


Lunch on day 1. From bottom, tomato sauce, roast pork, rice, roast chicken, fried plantains, pineapple (almost gone), and rolls.


Gilles and Guy-Roland. We work with these guys at the RELUFA offices, and they are two of the friendliest people we have met in Cameroon. Gilles is the office manager or something similar, and Guy is the coordinator of CAP, the microfinance program for which I am writing a database. They are both always smiling and laughing, but Cameroonians like to look very serious in photographs. I teased them about this, asking Valery to tell them to smile, telling them I was going to buy a big zoom lens to catch them smiling, and they laughed at me, but I still couldn't catch it in a picture.





Mateo, presenting a report from Publish What You Pay, the initiative to get extractive industries (mining, logging, oil) to make public the amounts they give to governments who don't publish that information. The notion is that this transparency, as it's called, will get more of this money to the people affected by the industries and to the population in general, and will bring more accountability into their dealings.


Meg, who works for another RELUFA partner organization called CHAMEG. (Hope I spelled that right). She's Anglophone, and lives in Bueua, where Ann and I plan to visit soon. I think this is her annual report as RELUFA board chairperson.


Meg again, day 2.





Samuel, who works for CED, a RELUFA member NGO that works on environmental issues. Like Valery, he is trained as a lawyer. I brought some folks I met socially to meet him, since they do similar work, and got to hear him present CED's work for an hour. I hope to write more about this; CED has a lot of interesting projects and is doing some amazing things.


Lunch, day 2.


The whole conference table.


This is Valentin, the guard at the RELUFA offices.


Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Chad and its troubles

A few people have expressed concern about our welfare with regard to the
situation in Chad, our neighbor country to the north. (In case this is
news to you, the government and rebels have been fighting in Chad, and
foreigners have been evacuated). We're unaffected directly by this,
except that we may get to meet a few of the Americans who worked for SIL
up there and got evacuated here, to Yaounde. Chad is several hundred
miles away, to the north. There are a few more refugees now, we've
heard, up near that area, but there have been refugees fleeing the
Central African Republic to come here for years already, so it's not a
huge change for Cameroon on a national level. So no worries, we're in
no danger from the troubles up north.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

The Frank Chus of Yaounde

There's a guy in San Francisco named Frank Chu. He wears a raincoat and
sunglasses all the time and marches around town with a big sign that has
obscure messages about politics and outer space. Sometimes he harangues
people in a low, gutteral voice that indicates this is not just an act,
but he's never violent, and usually quiet. San Francisco has embraced
him, fine town that it is, with a long tradition of eccentrics dating
back at least to Norton I, Emperor of the United States, and you can see
people dressed up like Frank at Halloween parties. One downtown
establishment paid for advertising space on the back of Frank's sign.
There's a bar called 12 Galaxies in the Mission district that probably
took its name from one of his slogans. Frank even has his own extensive
wikipedia page at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frank_Chu


Yaounde has some characters like this, eccentrics of long standing who
are at least tolerated, if not exactly embraced, and since we take taxis
to and from work, we have slowly gotten to see them. There's one guy,
the Mud Man, who runs around in traffic near the Brasserie (bottling
plant) when it jams up there, wearing nothing but a pair of briefs, not
even shoes, holding a big pile of mud in one hand. He's loud,
boisterous, and approaches drivers to extort money from them. The taxi
guy we were with tried to roll up his window but wasn't fast enough, and
ended up muttering something and giving the guy a coin as the mud
hovered near his face, just out the window. We've heard the Mud Man
also likes to taxi-surf, and will jump up on a vehicle's roof and cling
to the top lip of the windshield while it speeds through traffic and he
sings at the top of his lungs. We did see someone doing this recently
in our neighborhood, from a distance, but he had clothes on, so I'm
wondering whether it was the same guy.


And then there's the guy who thinks he's a cop. He hangs out in the
neighborhood northeast of where we live, so we only see him if the taxi
takes an indirect route to or from work. He's older, and wears a beret,
a whistle, and his own very rumpled version of a police uniform without
insignia. He likes to stand in the middle of the street (traffic is a
lot slower here, and this is not too unusual in itself), waving his arms
and blowing his whistle and looking stern. Today, on the way in, he
thumped the hood of our cab, and at first I thought it was a real
policeman, since we were indeed in the middle of a small traffic tie-up,
and he banged the other cars. But Ann spied who it was, gleefully, and
pointed him out. As we watched, he took issue with some other
unfortunate taxi driver and actually bawled him out; we heard him
yelling "tu fait quoi?" while the driver tried hard to ignore him.


We might not have found out about these guys if we didn't take taxis to
and from work, or if we hired our own exclusive taxi instead of sharing
them the way Cameroonians do. It's almost as cramped as the buses I
described elsewhere, with a lot less headroom, and we're always lugging
big backpacks full of laptops, but it's a good way to see the city from
street level on a regular basis, and get to know it in a way we might
have missed. It's tempting to bring a camera out on these rides, but
I'm divided on that question.

Friday, February 1, 2008

RELUFA General Assembly, day one

Phew. It's 730pm, and we're still at work. We've been here since 830am
at the annual General Assembly meeting of RELUFA, the network of NGOs
for which we're volunteering this year. And people are still having
side conversations now that the official program is done. Five feet to
my left, Ann is having a complicated conversation in French with Guy,
the administrator of the CAP microfinance program for which I'm writing
a database. Guy had the last presentation of the day, about CAP, and
we're still in the process of determining how best to analyze the
long-term financial trends in the program. I got tasked today to
develop a technology questionnaire to be handed out tomorrow, in order
to start addressing some of RELUFA's communication needs with
technology. We figured beforehand that today would go late, so Christi
and Jeff are putting us up tonight at their place, just around the
corner, since otherwise we would have had to leave by 530 or so to get a
taxi home before dark. Riding around in taxis in the dark is a bad idea
in Yaounde; even the taxi drivers don't much care for it.


I'm also taking photos of the event, for distribution to attendees and
for use in the Joining Hands newsletter, the Presbyterian aid agency
periodical that Christi edits. So I'll post a few of those soon.


It's really nice to be doing this kind of administrative work in the
service of some beneficial social ends. I used to work at a bank a few
years ago. The people I worked with were very nice, most of them, and I
even keep in touch with a few to this day (hi, Ned!). But the meetings,
oh the meetings; it was like being dragged naked through an acre of
brambles and then thrown over the lip of a live volcano, some of those
meetings with suits at the bank. But I enjoyed today, although it was
almost entirely in French and therefore tiring. The difference seems to
be that this is actually for socially constructive ends, and that the
people in charge really know what they're doing and care about the
people they work with. It's good to be here, trying to make ourselves
useful. There are companies that are this positive to work in as well,
but they're rare, in my experience.


They also fed us. A cross-cultural experience traditionally involves
eating a lot of disgusting food and bravely making the best of it.
Well, friends, I've rarely eaten better than I am in Cameroon. Lunch
was catered from a restaurant up the road at the Faculte' de Theologie.
It consisted of roast chicken, roast pork, rice, fried potatoes, tomato
sauce, bread, hot sauce, and semicircular hunks of delicious acid-free
Cameroonian pineapple fully two inches thick. And sodas. I chatted in
my stumbling French with one of the caterers, named Felix, and found out
the restaurant is open weekdays til about 3pm and sells lunch for around
two bucks a plate (CF700). Have to check that out.